Since the 16th century, when Venetians began importing coffee beans, Italians have considered themselves the world’s most discerning coffee drinkers.
So it’s little surprise that many have reacted with suspicion to the latest innovation by Starbucks: olive oil-infused coffee.
Howard Schultz, the company’s chief executive, launched the beverage in Milan yesterday. Describing his “stunning” concoction as “lingering beautifully on the palate”, he said the idea had come to him like an “epiphany” during a trip to Sicily where he saw locals downing a teaspoon of oil for good health.
Customers at Milan’s flagship Starbucks, however, were less effusive about the Oleato range. “It’s not bad but the aroma of oil was too strong — it was more like drinking oil than coffee — seven out of ten,” said Giorgia Ricci, 22, a student.
To create Oleato varieties including a latte and iced cortado, Starbucks employees steam or shake extra virgin olive oil with oat milk to create a “luxurious, textural experience”, although Alessio Perrone, a Milanese journalist, said he not overwhelmed by his golden foam cold brew.
“I am not sure I would have it again — do I want to drink olive oil in the morning? I can’t place the time of day I would drink this,” he told The Times.
Carlo, 49, was impressed, and knew exactly when he would drink it. “It’s good and I think it would be ideal with brunch,” he said.
The most surprising vote of confidence came from Luigi Morello, head of the Italian Espresso Institute, which trains baristas and monitors coffee quality in Italy. After trying the blend at Starbucks he said: “I’m surprised but I liked it. It would be a good cold drink for the summer. It won’t compete with an espresso but it is a good way to introduce the young to coffee.”
Schultz claims he was inspired to spread Starbucks around the world after a visit to Milan cafes in 1983. But it was not until 2018 that the firm opened its first branch in Italy, seemingly intimidated by the country’s coffee culture which sees millions of Italians diving into cafés at all times of day to down a cheap espresso.
Italy was Starbucks-free until the first branch opened in 2018
Today the bestselling coffee in Italian Starbucks branches is not the frappuccino or the hazelnut bianco latte but the espresso.
The next big branch opening in Italy is expected to be Rome, where staff at the independent Caffe Ponte Milvio were startled to hear of olive oil infused coffee.
“Let’s try it,” said Massimiliano Travagli, the manager, pouring a teaspoonful of oil into a freshly made Americano. As the oil floated on the surface, customers gathered round to stare as he prepared to take a sip.
“Shall we turn away? It looks like minestrone,” said one customer. Putting down the cup, Travagli said: “I don’t really like it.” Mauro Mozi, a barista, raised his eyebrows and said: “Coffee is coffee.”
